The deposit dance.
Security deposits are the awkward tango at move-out — you want all of it back, they want to keep what they can justify, and the law sits somewhere in between. Here's how to move through it.
Don't assume you put down a full month's rent. Many communities charge a flat amount ($300–$500). Class A buildings sometimes reduce or waive the deposit for renters with strong credit or move-in specials. If you didn't pay much, there's less to get back — that's not a raised eyebrow, it's just math.
Your lease or move-in paperwork is the source of truth. It's already saved in My Rental.
Some states require deposits above a certain amount, or held longer than a year, to accrue interest. If yours qualifies, you may be owed a small interest payment. It's fine to ask, in writing: "Was my deposit held in an interest-bearing account, and if so, how much interest was earned?"
Your final bill is deducted from your deposit first. That can include prorated or holdover rent, utility trailing bills (RUBS), and cleaning, repair, or damage charges. You cannot be charged for normal wear and tear — only for damage. When in doubt, see the Spotlight.
Most states require the deposit (or an itemized statement of deductions) within 30–45 days. Some allow up to 60. Refunds arrive as a check, direct deposit, or account statement — usually mailed to the forwarding address you provided.
No forwarding address on file? Your money may sit unclaimed. This is one of the easiest wins in the whole process.
- Wait for the refund. Disputing before it's issued can slow you down.
- Dispute in writing with your photos, receipts, and inspection notes attached.
- Weigh the amount. Small differences may not be worth the hours.
- Larger amounts may be worth contacting local tenant resources — that's a plain-language check, not a legal conclusion.
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